Sunday, March 15, 2015

À La Campagne

I am on the train passing through fields of green pastures intermittently split up by a smattering of stone houses and the occasional church. It is the epitome of the French countryside. I am somewhere halfway in between Paris and Bordeaux headed back home from a weekend spent about an hour outside of Paris in a little town called Le Vaudoué at the home of my friends Bernard and Sylvie.

The background story is this: my family and I met Bernard and Sylvie seven or eight years ago when we all happened to be vacationing at a dude ranch in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. I spent the week being coerced by my dad into practicing my elementary French with Bernard and Sylvie, a very cute French couple, both of them about 55 years old. We ate meals together, went on horseback rides on the plains of Wyoming together, and even went to a rodeo one night in town together. At the end of the week, Bernard and I exchanged emails and we proceeded to be pen pals for a while. Naturally and unfortunately as things go, we lost touch. Fast forward seven/eight years. When I knew for sure I would be in Bordeaux this semester, I floated an email to Bernard’s old email address to see 1) if he still remembered me and 2) if he was still living around Paris. Eight hours later there was an email from Bernard in my inbox saying he was so excited to hear from me and of course I should come visit him and Sylvie.

Fast forward again to this weekend. It was amazing. Bernard and Sylvie picked me up from Gare Montparnasse and the first place we headed? Le Tour Eiffel. And not only did we just visit the tower, we had dinner in it at the restaurant Jules Verne! I had a wonderful five-course dinner of smoked salmon, caviar, scallops, veal, chocolate, and of course, wine. I sat next to a window and could look out next to me and see the Seine River below, the Champs Élysées off in the distance, and everywhere the streets of Paris illuminated with people and lights. It was truly one of the most surreal experiences I’ve ever had.
Stacey in awe over being inside the Eiffel Tower for dinner
View from my seat at Jules Verne
On Friday Bernard went off to work while Sylvie and I went off to play. Bernard and Sylvie own four horses that they keep on their property and Sylvie rides almost every day with her friends who live nearby. Sylvie hopped on horseback but as I hadn’t ridden a horse since the last time I’d seen her, I opted to ride in a cart behind a horse with some of her friends. Just call me Cinderella. We rode into town, we rode out of town, we rode everywhere through the French countryside. I can’t even begin to describe how serene and calm it was out there. I became quickly enamored by the sheer space and expanse of the forest and country around me.

Could not get enough of the French stone buildings
View of the French countryside from my horse drawn carraige
In the afternoon Sylvie and I rode (by car) into the town of Fontainebleau where we had lunch, went window-shopping, and visited the Chateau Fontainebleau. I am not a history or art history buff in the slightest, but even I was impressed by the sense of history that France has. Talking to Sylvie about the history of the Chateau and of France, I started to feel a little remiss by the fact that the United States was formed only recently by historical standards. C’est incroyable the royal history that France has.
Chateau Fontainebleau 
On Saturday, Sylvie and I were back at it, this time on foot. When she asked me if I wanted to go for a walk with her dogs and one of her horses, I had no idea what I was signing up for. We went on a two-hour hike traversing the forest that is their back yard. It goes on for miles and miles. It was probably a good thing she didn’t give me any advance warning. I will say I was having some trouble keeping up with her at times. Thankfully Bernard called us about an hour and a half in and told us lunch was waiting so we had to start heading home; otherwise I think Sylvie could have gone on for another couple hours. 
Gaget and I on our forest hike
Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte
We had lunch at their house with their daughter, and two granddaughters, Amel and Norrah who are 11 and eight years old. After lunch the six of us toured another one of France’s many famous chateaus, this one Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte, my new dream home. Unfortunately it’s slightly out of my price range. While the chateau itself is not quite as large as Chateau Fontainebleau, its gardens are what really make it impressive and they go on as far as the eyes can see. And because Syvie and I hadn’t done enough walking that day, we of course had to go on a walking tour of the grounds. I’m more than slightly in awe of Sylvie’s 65-year-old frame.

Vaux-le-Vicomte from the edge of the grounds
For dinner we returned home and had a vegetable quiche Sylvie made along with various cheeses and a green salad. I am really starting to enjoy the French cuisine. We then watched some TV and talked a little politics (not seriously) and it was great listening to their takes on French and American politics. They’ve got their bets on Hilary Clinton winning in 2016, but only because her name is the only name they know!

Today was time for me to head home and to let my French friends get back to their lives, but not before eating a lunch of octopus, crayfish, leftover vegetable quiche, and part of an apple tartine that Sylvie made this morning. I’ve found my new host family!


I had a really wonderful weekend being spoiled by Bernard and Sylvie. I am feeling especially thankful for all the people I’ve met in my life, both at home in the US, and here on my trip in Europe. Reconnecting with people you haven’t seen in a years and on a completely different continent is quite something. I am at a loss for how to explain it other than by saying it is something special and something I will never forget.
Mes amis Bernard et Sylvie!

Sunday, March 8, 2015

Tourists in Bordeaux

Reunited, and it felt so good. This weekend I had a visitor in Bordeaux, ZOE! My roommate at UCSB, Zoe is spending the semester in Florence, Italy, and visited me in Bordeaux for the weekend. So while I didn't travel to a new city this weekend, I still donned my tourist hat and toured my city, the lovely Bordeaux, with my lovely best friend.

Book-lovers paradise, Mollat
On Friday afternoon I showed Zoe around my neighborhood, Gambetta. Stacey's sightseeing tour included, but was not limited to:

  • Mollat, Bordeaux's largest, and most famous bookstore
  • Hotel de Ville, Bordeaux City Hall 
  • My favorite boulangerie, La Mie Câline
  • Cathedrale Saint-Andre and bell tower
  • Rue St. Catherine
  • Gambetta square (made complete by our chocolate croissants)
Zoe loves her Gothic churches
We walked and walked, and when we were done with that, we walked some more. We had dinner at home with my French host family. The night before Zoe arrived, my host mom, Nelly, had asked me what meal she should serve to Zoe to which I responded, "Something French." And for her first dinner in Bordeaux, that is what Zoe got. We had a melange of potatoes, leeks, and two different types of French sausages in a white cream sauce, followed by the obligatory cheese course before a chocolatey dessert. After letting our stomachs digest, we hit the bars with a couple friends.

Picnic lunch!

In the interest of showing Zoe a good time, Bordeaux pulled out all the stops and decided to forgo the rain and gray skies for blue skies and sunshine. Saturday I donned a tank top, capris, and sandals, and we met up with some friends at Jardin Public for a late picnic lunch. We kept with the French theme of baguettes, fromage, sausage, wine, and chocolate while basking in the sun. Trying to battle lethargy, we headed to Quinconces along the Garonne River to take a look at the faire that was in town. We hopped on the ferris wheel and took to the skies, getting a bird's-eye view of Bordeaux. The fun in the sun (and the wine) did us in, however, because when we headed back home around 6pm, it turned out that we were in for the night.

View of Quinconces and Bordeaux from our ferris wheel

We ended Zoe's tour of Bordeaux today, Sunday, by getting up early and walking back up the river to the Marché du Colbert, a Sunday open-air market "sur le quai". We passed by artisan breads, flower marts, and oyster bars. We ate croissants, canelés (a traditional bordelais rum cake), and sipped coffee at a café just along the river. We were the epitome of "la vie bordelaise" while lounging and agreed to do our best to continue this lifestyle when we get back to Santa Barbara in the fall.  Only reluctantly did we head back to my house to make sure we got Zoe back to the airport on time. 

Living the café lifestyle
It was a wonderful weekend. It was nice to introduce Zoe to my city and to have a little part of home with me in Bordeaux. Parting was such sweet sorrow but I was cheered by the fact that I am going to visit her in Florence in only a few week's time! 1,200 km can only keep us separated for so long.

Sunday, March 1, 2015

Lyon, France

My whirlwind week of winter break is drawing to a close. I spent this weekend in Lyon after a quick one night stop over in Bordeaux after my trip to Edinburgh. The flight from Bordeaux to Lyon was about one hour and I arrived in Lyon late morning on Friday. I dropped my bag off where I was staying and, knowing that I would only be in Lyon for two nights, hit the sights.

View of Lyon from the Rhône
Lyon is a beautiful city, separated into three sections by the two rivers that run through the city, the Rhône and the Saône. From where I was staying I headed west, traversing first the Rhône and then the Saône, into the old town, "Vieux Lyon". "Vieux Lyon" is distinctly different from the more updated parts of the city for precisely that reason, it is old. The buildings have been beautifully preserved in their colorful and uniform style, forbidding all things modern--high rises, concrete and glass buildings not allowed. Vieux Lyon rests at the base of a large hill which I climbed twice--once on Friday to see the La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière, and on Saturday to see the remaining ruins of Lyon's Roman theater. While both the basilique and ruins were magnificent in their own right, the view from their hilltop sites easily rivaled the two landmarks.

The amazing mosaic ceiling of La Basilique Notre Dame 
Lyon's Roman Theater ruins



View from La Basilique Notre Dame
I spent the weekend crossing back and forth over the two rivers, admiring how the rivers delineated not only geographical cross-sections of the city, but also separated Lyon into three distinctly different socio-economical and cultural sections. Where I was staying, on the east side of Lyon, had high rise apartment complexes and hotels, lots of concrete, and was the most urban section of Lyon. Crossing the Rhône westward lies presqu'île, meaning "almost island" in French. As it lies in between the two rivers, it is indeed almost and island, and it is where all the shopping is. I felt like I was back in San Francisco when I picked up a couple tops at Brandy Melville and bought a latte at Starbucks--two
luxuries not available in Bordeaux. Heading further west across the Saône is Vieux Lyon, and where I went back for dinner on Saturday night and gorged myself on traditional Lyonnaise cuisine.

Pâté en Croûte with foie gras and sweetbread
Red wine braised beef cheeks
Something that made my trip particularly pleasant was where I was residing in Lyon. While planning my trip I had decided I wanted to forgo the hostel route and looked into places on AirBnB instead. I found a room on AirBnB and booked it, unsure what to expect because I had never booked a room on AirBnB before, and was not disappointed. My room was in the apartment of a man named Alvaro who lived there with his son. It turns out Alvaro was not French, actually Brazilian, but had moved to Lyon over 15 years ago and spoke perfect French. When he began speaking to me in English upon my arrival I asked him if he would speak in French to me because a) I could understand him and b) I wanted to practice speaking French. He was all too happy to oblige and was relieved, saying that it would make it a lot easier for him as well. In the mornings Alvaro, his four year old son, Raphael, and I, ate breakfast together and talked a lot about Lyon and about ourselves. It was definitely a good language exercise for me and while Alvaro taught me knew words and phrases in French, I translated them and pronounced them in English so he could learn as well. My experience with AirBnB added a lot of local color to my experience in Lyon as Alvaro suggested things for me to do and see (and, of course, eat) during my short stay.
Across the Saône
Last but not least I have to mention the Lyon's Parc de la Tête d'Or. It is one of the largest urban parks in France and it is where I spent my Saturday morning. I've missed running in Golden Gate Park since I've been in France and while nothing comes close to GGP, this park was pretty awesome. It certainly not as big as GGP but in french terms, it is huge. It lies right along the Rhône and includes both a botanical garden and a "jardin zoologique" (animal garden/animal farm) as well as a large lake in the center. During my run I looked over and could see ostrich and deer running around! They were in a gated area so I couldn't actually say hi to them but it was pretty cool all the same. When I get back to SF I'll see about adding some ostrich to GGP.